Garage Door Repair in Toronto and the GTA
Doors that stick, bind, reverse, or will not move at all – diagnosed from the symptom.
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Almost every garage door problem is one of five things: a spring, a cable, the rollers and track, the opener, or the door itself. The useful part is that each one fails in its own way, so the noise it made and the way it moved usually tell us which before anyone drives out.
What usually turns out to be wrong
| What you noticed | What it usually is |
|---|---|
| A bang like a gunshot, then the door will not lift | A broken torsion spring |
| The opener motor runs but nothing moves | A stripped drive gear, or the trolley is off the cord |
| It starts down then reverses back up | The safety sensors at floor level |
| The door hangs crooked and jams | Off the track, usually after a cable snapped |
| Grinding, shuddering, very loud | Worn rollers and dry bearings |
| Very heavy to lift by hand | Springs near the end of their cycle life |
| Remote does nothing, wall button works | Remote battery or a re-pair to the opener |
| Gap at the bottom, drafts and water | Perished bottom seal, or the door is out of level |
The one test worth doing before you call
With the door down, pull the red release cord to disconnect the opener, then lift the door by hand. A door in good balance moves with modest effort and stays put when you let go halfway. If it is very heavy, or it slams down, or it will not lift at all, the problem is the springs and not the opener — and no amount of opener work will fix it.
What we repair
- Torsion and extension springs, replaced in pairs
- Lift cables, drums and off-track doors
- Rollers, hinges, bearing plates and track alignment
- Openers — gears, logic boards, sensors, remotes and keypads
- Single panel replacement on dented sections
- Bottom seals, weatherstripping and threshold gaps
- Locks, handles and manual latch mechanisms
What we will tell you not to bother with
Not everything is worth repairing. A door with rusted-through sections at the bottom, or several damaged panels on a model that is no longer made, usually costs more to chase parts for than to replace. We would rather say that on the phone than after you have paid for a patch. The same goes for a twenty-year-old opener with a failed board — the board can cost close to a new unit that comes with a warranty and a rolling code.
How the price works
You get the likely cause and the price for the job before anyone travels. If the door is opened up and it turns out to be something else, you hear that and what it changes before the work continues. There is no version of this where a number appears only at the end.